The most honest argument for European identity is probably the food argument. Not because it is the deepest, but because it is the least contestable. Whatever disagreements exist about borders, values, and belonging, the proposition that European food cultures represent one of the world’s great civilizational achievements is close to universally accepted — by Europeans and by the many millions who travel to Europe primarily to eat. The EU’s protected designation of origin (PDO) system is, among other things, a legal framework for taking European identity seriously at the level of cheese and wine.