The first thing a serious whisky bar tells you, it tells you before anyone takes your order. It is written on the back wall. Walk into a room like the one above and the shelving is doing the talking. Bottles stacked four and five tiers high, warm light thrown up from behind the glass so the liquid glows amber and copper, and — the giveaway — a library ladder leaning against the rail because the top shelf is genuinely out of arm’s reach.