The building on the corner does not look like a museum. It looks like what it was, a merchant’s house from the seventeenth century, cream render going grey at the base, a wide gable with brown timber under the eaves, shutters that still work. You come over Pont Marengo from the other side of town, you notice the red banner, and without the banner you would keep walking. That is the Musée Basque et de l’histoire de Bayonne.

I still don’t know which church this is. I walked past it, looked up, took the picture, and kept going, and by the time I thought to check I was three streets away and it had started to rain. There are a lot of these in Bilbao. Grey stone, gold trim round the windows, a spire that goes up further than it needs to, wedged in between an office block and a bank branch like nobody planned any of it.